29th Jun 2015

Treating and preventing hyperpigmentation

Winter may be upon us and the sun has practically gone into hibernation so you think your pigmentation couldn’t be getting any worse...

Unfortunately you’re wrong!

UVA rays are still out in full force and poking fun when you least expect it.

UVA rays are largely responsible for the formation of pigmentation and coupled with hormones and medications like the Pill are the perfect catalyst for a life marred with blotchy uneven skin.

Oh well, there’s nothing I can do to stop that” you say...

Wrong again!

With the correct homecare programme and treatments to match we can certainly treat this annoying condition but it must be tackled from a number of angles.

Firstly we aim to prevent the formation of new pigment hence stopping the condition from worsening.

This is achieved by protecting the skin with adequate photo protection and topical Antioxidants that prevent inflammation all year round.

A broad spectrum SPF such as O COSMEDIX MINERAL PRO offers this double-edged protection– It is an excellent light- weight, Antioxidant charged Physical Blocker that stops UVA and UVB rays from stimulating pigment production and causing pigmentation.

O cosmedics

Secondly we must work to prevent stimulation of the Melanocyte. This is a long-armed or ‘dendritic’ cell responsible for using the amino acid Tyrosine to produce and deposit pigment into the skin.

Ingredients under the ‘Tyrosinase Inhibitor’ category are crucial in regulating this process.

Tyrosinase is an enzyme that controls this amino acid’s oxidation or break down. Tyrosinase is responsible for how much or little melanin or pigment is delivered into the skin and hence the regulation of this enzyme’s activity is essential to prevent pigmentation from worsening.

The easiest way to understand this process is to think of a banana. The yellow coloured skin of the banana is created by Tyrosine. When you see the black marks forming on the banana peel this is caused by Tyrosinase breaking down the Tyrosine. This process is a form of oxidation.

Tyrosinase inhibitors will prevent the Tyrosinase from breaking down Tyrosine and allow normal pigment production and deposition to happen.

COSMEDIX – SIMPLY BRILLIANT – Contains 10 active Tyrosinase inhibiting and antioxidant ingredients along with powerful AHA’s that will seriously kick your pigmentation’s butt!

Cosmedix Simply Brilliant

Thirdly, our pituitary gland produces a peptide hormone called MSH or Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone. This hormone not only helps to control the colour of our skin but also our appetites and sexual desire.

Research into the use of peptides in skincare to affect these hormones and their control on the skin is ongoing and showing very promising signs.

Using specific peptides that bind to receptors on the Melanocyte and inhibit the controlling effect of MSH will prevent pigmentation from worsening.

DERMAQUEST SKIN VITABRITE contains a number of these peptides along with Tyrosinase inhibitors and Antioxidants which enables a triple action defense against pigmentation.

skin-vitabrite

Last of all we need to remove the pigment that has previously been deposited into the skin.

This can be achieved using powerful chemical exfoliators (not actual chemicals but agents that create a chemical reaction in the skin) like AHA’s and BHA’s and Skin DNA regulators like Retinol.

These agent promote shedding of old cells and allow pigmentation to break down and move to the surface where it is slowly eliminated leaving a more even appearance.

This then allows for healthy new cell production and a more even distribution of pigment throughout the skin.

SOCIETE REFINISHING COMPLEX contains a potent mix of AHA’S BHA’S Retinol and Pigment inhibitors that will assist in the elimination of irregular pigment deposits and prevent the formation of future hyperpigmentation.

Societe refinishing

Clinical Treatments that are most beneficial in treating this condition are those that create minimal inflammation and trauma to the skin and contain Lactic Acid such as Dermaquest’s Peptide Peel or Aspect’s Lactobotanical Peel.

Retinol based treatments such as Cosmedix’ Timeless peel are greatly effective at eliminating deeper pigment and controlled Skin Needling can assist in the breakdown of stubborn pigment without ablating or removing the surface of the skin and creating unecessary trauma.

IPL and Laser Treatments can and do create a lot of inflammation and trauma to the skin and risk worsening this already difficult condition.

It is important to note that a single day of heavy sun exposure can 
undo months of skin brightening treatments. Self-tanning products also stimulate the melanocytes, causing more darkening of hyper-pigmented skin, or can reverse prior treatments.

Pregnancy hormones and medicines like the pill will also affect the skin’s pigment and can restrict both treatment options and effectiveness whilst in your system.

It is so important to seek professional advice in the form of a thorough consultation and analysis to determine the most appropriate regime for your individual needs.